In the world of fine dining, striking the perfect balance between quality and value is the key to success. Westerville’s newest restaurant, Bel-Lago Waterfront Bistro (formerly Hoover Grill), has all the right ingredients, in the right proportions, to flourish.
Bel-Lago is not just another pretty place, although the view of Hoover Reservoir is beautiful and the new décor borders on elegant. The real draw to Bel-Lago is the cuisine. The food has flavor – big, real, honest flavor – and executive chef Jeff Heisler is meticulous about ingredients and preparation.
Heisler, a well-trained veteran of London’s Savoy Hotel and chef de cuisine under Hartmut Handke, knows his craft better than most. But even the best chefs in the world cannot excel without top quality ingredients. Bel-Lago’s Westerville owners understand that, and give Heisler creative license when acquiring ingredients. For example, Heisler’s dreamy blend of basil pesto gets its flavor from hydroponic organic basil grown at Westerville North High School. Heisler rolls the risotto balls ($7) in parmagiano reggiano, and the risotto itself is so creamy, you’d be hard pressed to find better.
The bone-in cuts of beef and pork are hand selected with an eye toward proper marbling. The bone-in ribeye steak ($25) comes with a Barolo wine reduction compound butter flecked with bacon. Heisler and company also make their pasta fresh daily, as well as the house-made breads.
The reasonably-priced menu is not pretentious, but includes items beyond traditional Italian fare. Bel-Lago’s cioppino– a fresh, tomato-based seafood stew for $12– is as ubiquitous as sourdough bread in San Francisco, but hard to find in Columbus. The sweet almond arugula salad ($7) Swith house-made balsamic vinaigrette is another rarity. The wine list is extensive – Bel-Lago carries more than 100 selections on a well-organized wine list.
The history Bel-Lago’s co-owners have in the food business is the final ingredient in this restaurant’s successful conception. Co-owner Jim Meadows is a friend of Alton Doody, a marketing guru and former professor at The Ohio State University (Doody’s ex-wife Sue Doody started Lindy’s, his sons created Brio and Bravo restaurants, and Doody himself owns a restaurant chain in New Orleans, for which Meadows worked as a consultant). Bel-Lago’s other co-owner, Dave Bianconi, is CEO of Progressive Medical in Westerville. Bianconi was Meadows’ roommate at OSU. Opening the restaurant fulfills his lifelong dream of operating a fine dining Italian-influenced restaurant.
Bel-Lago Waterfront Bistro
170 Sunbury Rd.
614-891-0200
Hours:
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursday-Saturday
www.bellagobistro.com
Bel-Lago Polenta Frites
4 cups water
1 ¼ cup cornmeal, finely ground
1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt
½ cup good olive oil
½ pound diced pancetta or bacon
½ cup yellow onion, finely diced
8 large basil leaves, julienned
3 ounces fresh spinach, chopped
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Fresh ground black pepper to taste
¼ teaspoon cayenne
¾ cup good parmesan, Asiago, or Romano cheese, grated
Place water, oil and salt in a heavy-bottomed sauce pan and bring to a rapid boil.
While waiting for water to boil, place pancetta and onions in sauté pan and render all the fat. Add remaining ingredients except cheese and sauté until onions are tender and spinach is wilted.
Once water is at a rapid boil, slowly sprinkle in cornmeal while whisking. Do not dump it in all at once or it will become lumpy. Once the cornmeal is whisked in, reduce heat to medium and continue whisking for 12 minutes.
Stir in cheese and contents of sauté pan to combine. Pour into a greased and lined (plastic or parchment paper) 9-inch-by-9-inch or 8-inch-by-6-inch pan. Smooth out and level with a rubber scraper and place in refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours to set.
Once cold, cut into the desired shape. Sauté polenta in olive oil in a nonstick pan until it becomes golden and crispy. Serve with marinara sauce and freshly-grated cheese.